This is a "how-to" timing belt replacement guide intended to be used by various skill level owners/mechanics. I will explain the options for the service, options for parts, and what I think is the best way to proceed with the service. Please note this is only a guide and not a guarantee that you won't mess something up. If you don't feel comfortable doing the service take it to someone else, don't blame me if you mess something up! There I said it!
Let's start off with the parts you will need:
The prices shown reflect MSRP as of 6/29/11, generally online parts retailers offer them at 20-25% below list price
Timing Belt ...................5142579AA - $209
Tensioner Pulley ..............5142798AA - $126
Idler pulley (2 required) .....5142573AA - $62.75
Timing cover gasket ...........5066921AA - $18.75
Water pump ....................5142985AA - $267
Water pump O ring .............5159019AA - $6.25
Water pump gasket ...............4864575 - $3.60
Thermostat ....................5142601AA - $146
Thermostat gasket .............5066806AA - $2.85
Other: Zerex G-05 coolant, about 1.3 gallons lost during the procedure. Serpentine belt. Serpentine belt tensioner. Fan clutch. Alternator/decoupler. JB weld(for intercooler leaks).
There are aftermarket alternatives available. Gates has a good quality timing belt that will cost you about $85 online. Crown auto makes a timing belt tensioner and idlers. Amazon and Rockauto both have the gates timing belt. IDparts.com also now carries various parts for the CRD including a kit for the timing belt service:
There have been TWO reported failures of a crown water pump shortly after install, one of which had a slipped belt that then did internal damage to the engine, specifically the rockers. (The rockers are designed to fail instead of the valves bending, but replacing the rockers typically runs about $800 for the parts alone) There has been another reported machining defect of a crown pump where it would not bolt to the block.
The crown pump costs about $115 online from, the OEM pump costs about $200 online or with a shop discount(prices reflect April of 2012).
Please see this thread for details on the crown water pump failure:
There are three levels of service for the 100k timing belt, each one will replace the most critical component, the timing belt, but if you are strapped for cash a cheaper service is more important than waiting. If you do the labor yourself and only replace the timing belt you can get away with the replacement for ~$100. If your belt slips or breaks its a minimum of $800 in new rockers.....plus all the other costs you are going to incur. You should not put off doing the belt over a matter of a few hundred dollars. It is better to only replace the belt than to do nothing at all!
That being said, here are the three levels of service you can do, and anything in between, that reflect different levels of cost.
The serpentine tensioner can sometimes go bad, if your alternator decoupler is failing. If the tensioner is on its way out I would recommend you replace during the TB service, it has to come off anyway so its a good time to toss on a new one.
Likewise if your serpentine belt is older it has to come off anyway so its a good time to throw on a new one, and it will never be easier. If your alternator decoupler is on its way out this is also a good time to replace it. The alternator needs to come off to install the intake cam locking pin, so its very easy to install a new one then(autozone has a reasonably priced rebuilt alternator that comes with a new decoupler).
This is also an excellent time to replace your mechanical fan clutch with a new one. At 100k my cooling fan clutch just wasn't working like it should, I was driving up hills on the interstate in moderately warm weather where my temperature would climb steadily to the 3/4 mark where in years past it had not done that. Replacing the fan clutch solved that problem. Plus, its off already so its easy to install a new one.
If your thermostat is questionable or has never been replaced this may be a good time to do that as well. Many OEM thermostats have failed before 100k, making the vehicle take forever to warm up or it never reaching full operating temp.....which can kill your fuel economy.
A note on coolant: You will loose about 1-1.5 gallons during the procedure. Buy one gallon, add it, and make the second fillup all water(something like a 70/30 mix), or buy two gallons and all coolant and keep a little extra around. I like this option more, if you ever need to add coolant in the future you can just add the rest of the coolant you have, and then later add water up to two gallons without worrying about keeping adequate freeze and corrosion protection.
Front end assembly removal procedure:
Now that being said here is the nitty gritty, the stuff you need to know to get it done, the above steps make it seem pretty easy, but its not, and the devil is in the details, its the little tips and tricks that make it easy or hard. Skip down a little bit if your already torn down to the point of the timing belt, the first part of this document deals with how to get the front end apart so you can get to the timing belt.
(Note: pictures for this section are not yet complete)
1. Remove Grill:
The grill comes off very easy, along the top of the grill there are plastic clips that hold it to the header panel, pull up and then forward on them and you will see it start to come off. Work your way along the grill until all of them and off and it will just pull out.
2. Remove bumper.
With the grill off you will see two 10mm bolts, one on each side by the turn signal. Remove them. Go underneath and look for two 10mm bolts pointed vertically that attach to the lower radiator support, remove them. There is a plastic push retainer that holds the front bumper to the plastic splash shield on the right and left splash shields, remove it from below. In each fenderwell there are two plastic reusable rivets that hold the splash shield to the bumper cover. Pull out on the center post then you can pull the whole fastener out, save all these parts for reuse. There is a plastic tab that goes from the fender flare to the bumper cover, you will just have to play with this to get it to come out while you remove the bumper cover. With the bumper cover dropped down there will be two wiring plugs to disconnect for the light attached to the body. Slide the red tab back and then push down on the retainer, the plug will then pull apart. Set bumper assembly aside.
3. Remove header panel.
There will be three 10 mm bolts on either side of the radiator support by the fender, remove all of these. Remove the plastic fasteners holding the plastic air shields to the header panel. The header panel will now come forward, complete with lights attached. By the drivers side fender you will see the headlight harness plug, slide the red tab over and then squeeze the plastic clip, it will then pull apart. Set complete header panels aside.
4. Remove upper radiator support.
In step 3 you removed 4 of the bolts that hold the upper radiator support in place, remove the last two 10mm bolts located on the bumper support in the center just in front of the electric fan. Pull the radiator support off paying attention to the washer bottle cap sliding off of the fill neck. Let the radiator support dangle out of the way down by the drivers front tire.
5. Remove electric cooling fan.
Here you can see the two bolts holding the electric cooling fan to the intercooler on the drivers side. Remove them. Remove the two upper bolts also circled.
Here you can see the single bolt on the passenger side, remove it and the slide the fan upward. Disconnect the electric plug, slide the red tab over and squeeze the retainer, pull apart. Set the fan aside. Remove the two upper bolts also circled.
6. Remove all bolts holding the AC condenser to the intercooler
If you have not removed all of the circled bolts in the step above do so now. Remove the upper fan shroud bolts, 1 10mm on each side.
There are two bolts that hold the IC to the radiator on the top, here you can see one of them on the far left of the image. There is another on the drivers side in the analogous location, remove them.
7. Remove fan shroud:
Pull the ac condenser up and then forward, then pull the radiator forward, if you have not done so yet remove the upper radiator hose. With the radiator/IC/condenser pulled forward carefully pull the fan shroud out. It's tight but it can be done.
8. Remove intercooler
The intercooler will slide up and then come up. It will take some work to clear both the radiator and condenser, I often end up rotating the AC condenser counter clockwise pivoting at about the inlet until it is nearly upside down, and then pulling the inlet tube out, you can figure out what works for you. Be careful that the metal square nuts don't fall out of the intercooler or radiator while removing.
9. Remove radiator
Put a bucket under the drain cock and then open it, go get lunch or a snack while you let it drain. Remove lower radiator hose, pull the radiator out.
10. Remove fan clutch.
This is the fun part, but now with all this stuff out of the way its not too hard. To remove it you will need a large cresent wrench, or the correct size wrench(I think it might be 36mm but don't quote me on that). Take a 13mm shallow socket(6 point preferable) and place in on one of the bolts that holds the fan idler to the block. This photo illustrates where you want to place the socket:
With one finger hold the socket in place, and with your other hand operate the wrench to get the fan nut off, it may be very tight. The point of the socket is to keep the pulley from spinning.
11. Remove Serpentine belt, fan idler, crank pulley, PS pump pulley, and serpentine belt tensioner.
First take the tension off of the belt, I use a 15mm wrench to apply leverage and remove the tension, then with the tension off I slip the belt off of the idler below the alternator, then I pull the belt off at the alternator, then I can release tension, remove the belt and set the belt aside.
Remove both serpentine belt idlers, they are both reverse thread, turn Clockwise to loosen! Set aside. Remove the fan idler, you will need to use the access hole to get to the bolt you put the socket on in the above step, set the fan idler aside. Remove the PS pulley(3x10mm bolts). Remove the serpentine belt tensioner, set aside. Remove the crank pulley(4x10mm bolts), set side(crank nut does not need to come off). With all this removed we can proceed to the timing belt job.
Timing belt procedure:
Lets take a look at a used Timing Belt with 111k on it:
Underside looks better, but still is covered by the fine red dust that comes off the belt as is bends and flexes.
This is the new belt in comparison to the old, much less wear and it looks much better.
Pressure testing the intercooler:
With one hand over the outlet and my mouth firmly sealed to the inlet(No Jokes Please) I blew hard and could feel and hear some leakage, after making sure my mouth and hand seals where good I uses the old soap suds trick to find a location that was leaking.
So we got a little JB weld, mixed it up, and made it flow into the area in question(the top most tube on the inlet/hot side of the intercooler).
Problem solved! No more leaks from that location. During tear down there was a good buildup of oil on the IC near the leak, most likely oil from the intake pathway being blow out the small leak(right by the inlet) and covering the IC with a nasty oil buildup. If you see the same thing happening then you may be having a small IC leak like I was.
Do not loose these:
There are a bunch of these located all in the radiator and the IC. They are small threaded inserts that simply slide in to a plastic holder on the radiator or IC and let other things like the fan shroud and AC condenser bolt to them. I lost several and had to find some nuts that would work. I didn't even realize these could come out until I went to reassemble everything and found out I was missing them!
Example of one not missing:
And one thats missing:
This was something I noted upon reinstall of every, the AC line had been hitting the upper radiator support, I bent the lip of the radiator support a bit and also bent the line down a bit, lots of clearance now!
This is the turbo inlet hose. When I was putting everything back together I found out that the lower part where it clamps to the turbo inlet had degraded and ripped apart. I suspect it had been this way a while and only now I had discovered it. It appears that this will be a 100% failure item on most CRDs, mine has been running the EHM and ORM for the past 60-70k miles(since about 40k-50k on the odometer) and I still had this failure. The stock CCV system will increase this failure rate, yet another reason to run the EHM and ORM.
The Part number for the new part is 53013104AE - Hose, Clean Air: